Fashion in the midst of Covid – Dior draws the tarots to present haute couture

Fashion in the midst of Covid – Dior draws the tarots to present haute couture
Fashion in the midst of Covid – Dior draws the tarots to present haute couture

In the midst of a pandemic, the successful brand presents a virtual collection inspired by tarots, a universe dear to its founder Christian Dior in times of uncertainty.

Posted today at 19:28

“Tarots speak of a magical world” and are used “not to see the future, but to better understand the present and our personality,” emphasizes Maria Grazia Chiuri, designer at Dior.

AFP

Faced with the pandemic and uncertainty, Dior took out the tarot cards and placed his collection in a magical world staged by Italian director Matteo Garrone on Monday on the first day of haute couture, still virtual, in Paris.

“Who am I?”: A young woman who asks the fortune teller will cross a dreamlike universe where she will meet Justice, the Empress, the Madman, the Hanged Man, Death or Temperance, before her feminine side, embodied by a long lace dress with voluminous sleeves, does not embrace its masculine side in the iconic “bar” suit revisited.

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“This collection is inspired by tarots, a world dear to Christian Dior who consulted the cards to reassure himself”, for his life and his house launched after the end of the war in 1947 when “the feeling of insecurity” reigned, explained to AFP the Italian designer of the house’s women’s collections, Maria Grazia Chiuri.

“Tarots speak of a magical world” and are used “not to see the future, but to better understand the present and our personality”, underlines the designer.

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The 15th century Visconti tarots adorned with gold, enamel and vegetal and geometric interlacing were taken as a reference. These images guide the silhouettes of draped dresses and define the colors as faded in time.

Masculine bar jacket, flat shoes

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The gold is worked in different jacquards and embroidery to fade and become matt.

However, we find the codes of the Dior house, including the mythical slim-fitting and ultra-feminine “bar jacket” launched in 1947 and which embodied the New Look. Here in black velvet, it has a whole new construction, with side pleats and goes with pants and moccasins.

Maria Grazia Chiuri stays true to her feminist aesthetic with flat shoes, something extremely rare in haute couture. Openwork, gold and silver cage boots and ankle boots complete the long dresses.

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The evocation of the Italian Renaissance passes in this collection through the work on materials.

One of the techniques used is that of “devoured velvet” consisting of removing a layer of velvet to bring out the gold lamé background on the “thousand flowers” dress or the one decorated with hand-painted signs of the zodiac.

Another is the “rat tails” made from fabric bias, sewn and turned over, applied to tone-on-tone shirts or dresses.

Fatigue

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The Italian painter Pietro Ruffo who had already collaborated with the house developed the graphics of the tarots in a contemporary interpretation. We find his almost abstract designs on the outfits and on a set of cards that serve as an invitation to the presentation of the collection.

Like Dior’s previous virtual haute couture collection in summer, this one was directed by Matteo Garrone, director of “Dogman” and “Gomorra”, awarded at Cannes.

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The first experience “was fantastic, his way of making cinema is artisanal. Matteo has a poetic, extremely picturesque language that goes very well with my vision of haute couture, ”emphasizes Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Deprived of parades by the pandemic, the houses are rethinking their presentation format.

By opening the week of haute couture on Monday, “the oldest and most international event” in the world and which only takes place in Paris, the French Minister of Culture Roselyne Bachelot praised the “resilience” of the houses which “Have deployed tremendous creativity” to preserve Fashion weeks despite the Covid-19.

“Promote fashion”

“We try to use other means to be able to promote fashion,” emphasizes Maria Grazia Chiuri. She is preparing a ready-to-wear collection for the next Fashion week in March without knowing if the parade will be able to take place in the face of the health situation which is hardly improving.

“It is useless to deny that the catwalks are a key element, not only for Dior, but for the whole fashion world.

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The guests who participate are part of the show, “” she emphasizes.

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The start of the year was very difficult, there were ups and downs. It is tiring to find the resources to move forward every time. Creativity is a refuge in this difficult reality, ”she concludes.

AFP

Posted today at 19:28

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